Deviation Actions
Description
So, to copy directly from my last plush in this evolutionary line: Houndoom is copyright Nintendo and is not mine, though this pattern is. I ask that you don't sell the pattern, and don't sell the plush online/in a major retail-y way if you use the pattern. Thanks!
Body (Make 1 in body color):
Round 1: sc 6 in magic circle (6)
2: inc around (12)
3: sc 1, inc in next st around(18)
4: sc 2, inc in next st around (24)
5: sc 3, inc in next st around (30)
6-10: sc around (30)
11: sc 8, dec over 2 around (27)
12: sc around (27)
13: sc 7, dec over 2 around (24)
14-16: sc around (24)
~begin stuffing here; stuff firmly
17: sc 12, inc, sc 11 (25)
18: sc around (25)
19: sc 12, inc, sc 12 (26)
20: sc around (26)
21: sc 13, inc, sc 12 (27)
22: sc 13, inc, sc 13 (28)
23: sc 14, inc, sc 13 (29)
24: sc 14, inc, sc 14 (30)
25-30: sc around (30)
31: sc 3, dec over 2 around (24)
32: sc 2, dec over 2 around (18)
33: sc 1, dec over 2 around (12)
34: dec around (6)
F/O. Add any needed stuffing for shape. Weave the tail around the last row and pull closed.
Front Legs (Make 2 in body color):
Round 1: sc 6 in magic ring (6)
2: inc around (12)
3: sc around (12)
4: sc 2, dec 4 times, sc 2 (8)
~begin stuffing firmly
5-9: sc around (8)
10: inc in next st, sc 7 (9)
11: inc in next st, sc 8 (10)
12: dec twice, sc 6 (8)
13: sc 3, inc in the next two sts, sc 3 (10)
14-16: sc around (10)
17: (sc 4, inc) around (12)
18-19: sc around (12)
Do not fasten off; begin shoulder
Right shoulder:
20: sc 6, ch1 and turn (6)
21: sc 6, ch1 and turn (6)
22: dec over 2 sts, sc across, ch1 and turn (5)
23: dec over 2 sts, sc across, ch1 and turn (4)
F/O, and add any needed stuffing, and leave a long tail
Left shoulder:
Turn the front leg so that you are working on the inside; then continue as with the right shoulder
Back legs (Make 2 in body color):
Crochet the first 13 rounds as with the front legs
Round 14: (sc 4, inc in next st) around (12)
15: (sc 3, inc in next st) around (15)
16-17: sc around (15)
18: (sc 4, inc in next st) around (18)
19-20: sc around (18)
Do not fasten off; instead, continue with the hips
Right hip:
Round 21: sc 9, ch1, turn (9)
22: dec, sc 7, ch1 and turn (8)
23: dec, sc 6, ch1 and turn (7)
24: dec, sc 5, ch1 and turn (6)
25: dec, sc 2, dec (4)
F/O, leaving a long tail
Left hip:
Turn the leg so that you are working on the inside; then continue as with the right hip
Belly (In belly color):
ch 5, and begin in the second chain from the hook
1: inc across, ch1 and turn (8)
2: inc, sc 6, inc ch1 and turn (10)
3-11: sc across, ch1 and turn (10)
12: inc twice, sc, dec twice, sc, inc twice ch1 and turn (12)
13-15: sc across ch1 and turn (12)
16: dec twice, sc 4, dec twice ch1 and turn (8)
17: dec, sc 4, dec ch1 and turn (6)
18: sc 2, dec, sc 2 ch1 and turn (5)
19-21: sc across ch1 and turn (5)
22: sc, inc, sc 3 ch1 and turn (6)
23: inc, sc 4, inc ch1 and turn (8)
24: inc twice, sc 4, inc twice ch1 and turn (12)
25-29: sc across ch1 and turn (12)
30: sc 4, dec twice, sc 4 ch1 and turn (10)
31-37: sc across ch1 and turn (10)
38: dec twice, sc 2, dec twice ch1 and turn (6)
39: dec, sc 2, dec ch1 and turn (4)
40: dec, sc 2 (3)
41-43: sc across (3)
44: sc, dec ch1 and turn (2)
43: dec (1)
F/O, leaving a long tail to attach
Head (One in main color):
1: sc 6 in magic circle (6)
2: inc around (12)
3: sc 1, inc in next st around(18)
4: sc 2, inc in next st around (24)
5: sc, inc 3 times, sc 18 (27)
6: sc, inc 3 times, sc 21 (30)
7: sc, inc 3 times, sc 24 (33)
8-10: sc around (33)
11: dec over 3 sts 3 times, sc 24 (27)
12: dec over 3, dec over 2, sc 22 (24)
13-19 sc around (24)
20: sc 3 in first st, sl st 11, rep once
F/O, leaving a long tail to attach. Stuff firmly
Snout (one in belly color):
Round 1: sc 6 in magic circle (6)
2: inc in first st, sc around (7)
3: inc in first st, sc around (8)
4: inc in first st, sc around (9)
5: sc 2, inc around (12)
6: sc 3, inc around (15)
7: sc 9, ch1 and turn
This is where you separate out the muzzle - this bit is the nose ridge, and the rest will be the jaws. Ignoring the other stitches, sc 3, ch1, and turn. Repeat this twice more, so that you have three rows of stitches, with 3 sts each. After the third time, dec over all three sts, and then sl st down into the part of round 7 you didn’t crochet on. Sc 6 back to the other side of the muzzle, ch 1 and turn.
Now, you’ll be working on the 12 sts that aren’t elongated to form the brow, so you can move your st marker if you’d like.
8: sc across (12)
9: sc 2, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2 (10)
10: sc 2, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 2 (8)
11: sc across (8)
F/O, leaving a long tail for attaching to the face (over the protrusion over rounds 5-11, which help shape the face).
Back ridges (make 4 in white)
So, there’s two different ridges that you’ll make here. Two big ones, for the hips and neck, and two small ones. The big ridges’ directions are in [brackets]
1: Sc 26 [31], sc along the length (25 sc) [30 sc]
2: turn the chain, and crochet along the opposite side (50) [60]
3: with the long oval thing facing you, sc each side together, working inside loops only. This’ll create a point that will face up. F/O at the end, with a long tail
Leg braces (make either 4 or 8 in white):
Ch 16, skip first st, sc across (15)
So, you can either sl st that together around the leg and make 7 more, or you can ch 1, turn, and work 15 sts in the opposite side, to give the illusion of two braces per leg with less work. Doesn’t look quite the same, but I like it. Either way, sl st together around the leg and F/O when you’re done; each leg either gets two or looks like it gets two.
Chest skull (make one in white)
So, either you can go the easy route, and make this out of fabric, or do the following:
Ch 11, sl st into the first st to make a circle
Invisibly dec over 3 chs
Sl st back to the circle rim, and sl st once in the rim
Dec over 2 chs, sc, dec over 2 chs
Ch1 and turn, dec over all three sc
Sl st this point to the other sc, the first dec over three
Sl st to the rim you haven’t sl st’d to before, and sl st once to make it even
Leave a long tail (unlike me the first time) to sew on. It doesn’t look as good as if you’d needle felted it or used felt, but it’s easier (to some extent. My felt’s covered in dog fur, so…)
Tail (make one in body color):
Round 1: Ch 4, join to make a circle, then sc 8 into that circle (don’t magic circle here, you want a pipe cleaner to be able to fit through). Make sure there’s a fair tail there, so if will attach to the body
2-10: sc around (8)
11: dec, sc around (7)
12-17: sc around (7)
18: sc 5, dec (6)
19-27: sc around (6)
28: you’re transitioning into rows here, for the point at the end. Ch 4, skip first st, sc 3, sc 3 through the tube of the tail, sc 4, turn (9)
29: skip first ch, sc 3, dec, sc 4, ch 1 and turn (8)
30: sc 3, dec, sc 3 (7)
31: dec, sc 3, dec (5)
32: dec, sc 1, dec (3)
33: dec across 3 sts (1)
34: sc 1 (1)
F/O. you don’t need a long tail. Go ahead and string a black pipe cleaner up through the tail hole, if you want it to be poseable.
Horns (make 2 in white):
1: ch 6, join into a circle, ch 1 and sc around (6)- there should be a tail here too, since this is the bit that attaches to the head
2-3: sc around (6)
4: sc 4, ch 1, turn, sc across those 4, the 2 unworked sts, and around the 4 again, essentially joining them together and making one side a bit higher- this is how the curve in the horns will be made. (6)
5: repeat row 4, taking care to keep the extra rows on the same side, so that the curve will be uniform (6)
6: sc around (6)
7: rep row 4, as above (6)
8: sc around (6)
9: dec around (3)
F/O and shape a bit more, so that it looks right. I didn’t stuff the horns, they didn’t seem to need it. Pin on the head before sewing.
How I assembled: head to body, use belly to place legs, legs to body, belly and tail, snout and horns, ridges, and chest skull- the leg braces should already be attached to the legs.
